Egypt : History, Traffic, and Turkish Coffee

My first full day in Cairo reminded me that seeing a place on television and experiencing it yourself are two very different things. The traffic, crowds, buildings, and pyramids appearing in the distance were a lot to take in. Egypt had my attention immediately.

After arriving last evening and settling into the hotel, today was my opportunity to begin exploring. I opted into the optional excursion to the Old citiy. It was 100 a Ogreat value. Our route took us from the western side of the city across the Nile toward Old Cairo. Crossing that river felt like a milestone. After hearing about the Nile for most of my life, there I was, watching it through the window.

What struck me first was the sheer number of people. Housing stretched alongside the highways, and groups stood beside the road, apparently waiting for transportation. White passenger vans moved through traffic alongside trucks, cars, and seemingly anything

else with wheels. I even spotted donkey carts and people walking near the roadway.

Watching it all, I wondered how anyone unfamiliar with the city could navigate it comfortably. Having someone else handle the driving was already a benefit of this Globus trip.

From the vehicle, I could see noticeable differences between neighborhoods. Poverty was visible, as were piles of trash and buildings needing attention. Those sights were difficult to overlook.

Old Cairo is just that, OLD. The government is working to remove the “slums” and replace with new construction. It is. Long plrocesss.

They reminded me that my vacation was taking place where millions of people were simply trying to get through their day.

We passed historic burial grounds where people also live. Our guide explained that some families’ connections to these places began with caring for the tombs. Seeing homes and graves sharing space was something I had never experienced before.

The burial grounds also doubles as a place for thee grounds caretakers to live.

Old Cairo was a joy to explore. At one point, we walked along a passage several feet below the modern street level. Looking up helped me appreciate how much the city had changed around these older places.

Remains of the Roman Babylon Fortress added another layer to the experience. Churches, a synagogue, and a mosque stand close together in this part of Cairo, bringing several religious traditions into one compact area.

Looking down you were able to see the original foundation from over a thousand years ago.

One of the most memorable stops was the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus, also called Abu Serga.

he church above the cave where the Holly family was believed to live.

Christian tradition associates its underground crypt with the Holy Family’s stay in Egypt. Sitting there and listening to that story was moving. Although the church was built later, the tradition connected with the site gave our visit special meaning.

The cave is associated with the Holly family living here during their days in Egypt.

We also visited Ben Ezra Synagogue. Photography was not permitted, so this was one stop I had to absorb without reaching for my camera. Listening to stories associated with Moses while exploring the area made the experience especially memorable.

What stayed with me was the closeness of these places. Within a short walk, we encountered different faiths and centuries of history. There was plenty to photograph, but also plenty that deserved quiet attention.

Outside the old synagogue in old Cairo. No pictures allowed inside. It was a lovely building that was once a church.

Later, we visited the Citadel of Salah el-Din and the Muhammad Ali Mosque within its walls. The mosque was impressive, and the views across Cairo gave me another sense of the city’s enormous scale.

The inside of the Masque is not ornate, but the walls were of alabaster. It gave the entire inside a gleaming white appearance.

Spotting the pyramids on the horizon was one of those moments when I thought, “I really am in Egypt.”

The market brought us back into the crowds. Tourists and locals filled the area, and vendors worked hard to attract our attention. Some were persistent, but none I encountered were rude or abusive.

Eventually, I took a break with Turkish coffee and Al-Azhar Mosque in the background. After the traffic, walking, and steady flow of information, sitting still felt particularly good.

Enjoying a cup of coffee looking out to the distance.

Cairo gave me a busy, fascinating first day. I finished with plenty of photographs, a head full of stories, and the feeling that I had only begun to understand the city.