Lazio & Rome (Central Italy)Rome & the Papal States: The Eternal City’s Double Life
- Brad Kaplan
- Mar 12
- 4 min read
Rome doesn’t ease you in. It hits you all at once—overwhelming, chaotic, magnificent. People call it the “Eternal City” because it feels like it’s been here forever, with layers of history literally stacked one on top of another. A modern street might sit above a Renaissance palazzo, which sits above an ancient temple, which sits above something even older.
But Rome’s “double life” is what makes it truly unique.
For more than a thousand years, Rome wasn’t only a famous city—it was the beating heart of the Papal States, a large swath of central Italy ruled directly by the Pope. That meant the Pope wasn’t just the spiritual leader of the Catholic Church; he was also an absolute monarch with armies, borders, laws, courts, and political power. This dual role helped shape a city of staggering grandeur—funded by wealth and influence flowing in from across Europe—but also a city long tangled in corruption, intrigue, and resistance to modern reform. That tension persisted until 1870, when Italian troops breached Rome’s walls and made it the capital of a unified Italy.

Today, you can still feel that split personality everywhere you go: ancient empire, sacred center, modern metropolis—sometimes all on the same block.
The Roman Trinity of Pasta (and Why It Matters)
Roman cuisine is bold and unapologetic—pungent, earthy, and deeply satisfying. It reflects the countryside around the city, shaped by shepherd traditions and an ingredient philosophy that wastes nothing. You’ll see this in quinto quarto (“the fifth quarter,” meaning offal and lesser-used cuts), and you’ll taste it in the intense salt-and-tang bite of Pecorino Romano, Rome’s signature sheep cheese.
And then there’s the pasta.
The Pasta Pantheon
Three dishes rule Rome, and they’re all built on the same holy foundation: Pecorino Romano + black pepper. From there, Rome turns the dial:
Cacio e Pepe: the purest form—cheese and pepper, creamy and sharp.
Carbonara: add egg yolk and guanciale (cured pork cheek) for silk and depth.
Amatriciana: add tomato and guanciale for a smoky, savory punch with bite.
If you eat these three in Rome—properly—you’ll understand why Romans talk about them like they’re cultural heritage, not just dinner.

Don’t Miss: Carciofi alla Giudia
One of Rome’s most iconic bites comes from its historic Jewish community: Carciofi alla Giudia, or “Jewish-style artichokes.” They’re deep-fried whole until they bloom like golden sunflowers—crispy at the edges, tender in the center, and impossible to forget. This dish is rooted in the Roman Jewish Ghetto, one of the oldest in the Western world, and it’s still a staple you’ll find done with pride and precision.
Major Attractions That Actually Live Up to the Hype
Rome has famous sights everywhere—but a few feel genuinely mind-bending.
Ancient Rome: The Colosseum & Roman Forum
The Colosseum isn’t just a postcard. It’s massive, brutal, and cinematic in the most real way. And then you walk into the Roman Forum, and suddenly the scale of the ancient world becomes physical. Cobblestones Caesar would have walked aren’t an idea here—they’re under your feet.
The Vatican: A Country Inside a City
The Vatican is technically its own independent state tucked into Rome, and it’s an overwhelming display of how the Papacy turned spiritual authority into cultural and political power. St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums (including the Sistine Chapel) aren’t “quick stops.” They’re full-body experiences—crowds, awe, and art that makes you stop mid-step.
The Layers: Pantheon, Trevi, and Baroque Theater
Rome’s magic is how it remixes itself across centuries:
The Pantheon is among the best-preserved ancient buildings in the world—and it’s been converted into a church, proving Rome rarely destroys; it absorbs.
The Trevi Fountain is pure Baroque drama—stone, myth, movement, and water turned into performance.
Note, the Trevi fountain now has a gated entrance and requires an entry fee. This is designed to help reduce over crowding and, provide funds to help maintain it.

Rome doesn’t just show history. It stages it. The Trevi Fountain at twilight, with its dramatic lighting and crowds of visitors, is a stunning example of the Baroque theater.
How to Explore Rome Without Burning Out
Rome can feel like an “everything trip.” The secret is choosing a strategy that keeps the city enjoyable instead of exhausting.
1) Wear Your Best Walking Shoes
This is non-negotiable. Rome is huge, and you’ll walk far more than you expect—often on uneven stone streets. The metro system is limited for a simple reason: every time they dig, they hit ruins. In Rome, even construction has a timeline measured in millennia.
2) Explore Neighborhoods, Not Just Monuments
The monuments are essential—but neighborhoods are where Rome becomes personal.
Trastevere: cross the river for buzzing nightlife, warm trattorias, and medieval alleyways that glow at night.
Monti: hip boutiques, vintage stores, cool cafés—Rome with a modern, creative edge.
Plan your “big” sights, then build in time to wander. Rome rewards slow curiosity.
The Takeaway
Rome is an ancient city with a modern pulse—and a past that refuses to stay in the past. It’s imperial, sacred, messy, breathtaking, and alive. Whether you’re tracing the footprints of emperors, standing under the dome of St. Peter’s, or polishing off a bowl of carbonara that ruins you for all others, Rome delivers one truth every traveler eventually discovers:
In the Eternal City, history isn’t behind glass.It’s under your feet—and it’s still happening.



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